Sunday, July 31, 2011

Transylvania Mania...


I spent the past few days traveling around the region of Transylvania; specifically visiting Tagru Mures, Sighisoara, Brasov, Sinaia and Bran. Before living here, I didn’t know much about the history, terrain, architecture, etc. of Transylvania. When people heard I was going to Romania they frequently made jokes about Dracula or me becoming a vampire. To the best of my knowledge, I’m not yet immortal and I remain repulsed by the idea of even eating animal blood. What I found in my travels were gorgeous landscapes and even more gorgeous architecture. Very bright and welcoming, quite opposite to the dreariness you would associate with Dracula.   

Let’s begin by exploring the Dracula myth. Bram Stoker, the author of Dracula set his story in Transylvania, a region that in 1897 was mysterious to most Western Europeans. Stoker himself had never set foot in Transylvania. While exploring Romanian history he came across the word Dracula, whose meaning is “Son of Dracul”, and replaced his villain’s name. The real “Son of Dracul” was Vlad Tepes, a ruler of the Wallachian region of Romania in the 13th century. The history of Vlad Tepes is bloody and unpleasant, but he is actually considered a national hero, not villain, for defending Romania against the invading Turks. There are two loose, but interesting, similarities between the real and fictitious Dracula. Vlad Tepes preferred form of killing enemies was to insert a stake through the anus and out the shoulder in a manner that no vital organs were pierced. This guaranteed a few days of terrible pain before the victim succumbed to death. Tepes enjoyed eating his meals while watching the people dying on the stakes. Though he didn’t suck out his victim’s blood, his method is something only a select few (cough cough vampires) could stomach. The second similarity is that Tepes was decapitated and according to the story to ensure Dracula remains dead you have to decapitate him.   

If you’ve ever driven or ridden a train across the Austrian countryside, you have a good idea of what Transylvania looks like. Fields of crops and wildflowers shadowed by mountains with the tallest trees you’ve ever seen and speckled with villages containing brightly colored buildings. It’s absolutely beautiful. You have to resist bursting out singing The Sound of Music. Speaking of musicals, I also thought I was in The Wizard of Oz during this trip. Some of the streets in Tagru Mures were yellow cobblestone, nicely resembling the yellow brick road. Though I’m not sure the initial reason for the yellow cobblestone, I know it’s now a symbol of Tagru Mures and when street work has to be done they carefully replace the same stones.  


We're off to see the wizard
The main attractions of the trip were two castles: the Peles Castle in Sinaia and the Bran Castle in, go figure, Bran. Sinaia is found right at the border between the Wallachia and Transylvania regions of Romania. It became a popular vacation site when the first king of Romania, King Carol I, built his summer residence, Peles Castle, here. The grandeur of the castle was meant to intimidate the Austro-Hungarian Empire that at the time of construction controlled Transylvania. Peles has over 80 bedrooms and 30 bathrooms. You know, a comfortable sized place for a family of two and their over 400 workers.   

The grounds of Peles Castle

Just a lovely little summer home
Bran Castle is often referred to as Dracula’s castle though in reality Vlad Tepes spent at most a few nights here while attempting to escape from the invading Turks. The castle is realistically best known as the summer residence of King Michael until his abdication in 1947. The communist regime held the keys to all castles and palaces until the 1989 revolution, when the properties were returned to the former royal family. King Michael is currently in his 90s and lives in Bucharest and remains wealthy by renting the castles to the government for tourism. The Bran castle is much different than Peles. It’s not extremely decadent, with white stucco and simple wood covering most spaces. Its grandeur lives in its size, numerous rooms with even more numerous nooks, crannies, and winding staircases. One things for sure, if it was Dracula’s castle, it would be easy to get lost inside forever.   

Dark cross at the foot of Bran Castle

One of the claustrophobic staircases

Tight squeeze even for me


I have to say my favorite city of the trip and maybe even edging out Cluj as my favorite city in Romania is Brasov. Their opinion of themselves is also quite high though they try not to be too cocky by saying: “Brasov, Probably the Best City in the World”. They have a cheesy replica of the Hollywood sign that I found quite endearing, a lovely open piazza that is always lively and the happiest crowd I’ve seen in all of Romania. The fact that one restaurant served guacamole (the first I’ve had all summer) was the icing on the cake and sealed Brasov’s spot at the top of my list. 


Notice the Brasov sign in the background

Piata Sfatului

Guacamole!!!

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Giddiness...

Note: This post began its life in my brain as a very short message; however, I began talking about Harry Potter and really couldn’t shut up. So an alternate title could be: My eulogy to the Harry Potter series and in essence my childhood.   

Today, while on my morning walk, I had an overwhelming feeling of giddiness. I love different people’s expressions of giddiness. The most prominent expressions to me are my old roommate Emily’s little squeal, my friend Kara’s knees and elbows out dance, and this arms linked, knee give out walk that my mom, little sister and I like to do. Emily’s squeal could be heard through our entire house. The sound of it put an instant smile on my face and I usually would go find out the source of the giddiness because I didn’t have enough self-control to keep working. This morning, I did my preferred self-expression of giddiness – skipping while silently laughing and smiling like a crazy person – through the Cluj city center. (I think many Romanians become giddy watching me be ridiculous.)

Several things led to my morning skipping. One contributor was that I got to spend a good part of this weekend in one of my favorite worlds, the book world. I had time to re-read Hunger Games and go see Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. Though a chapter of my childhood closed with the movie, I was extremely pleased with the result, so for now I can over-look the fact Harry Potter countdowns cease to exist. My two favorite quotes from the book, and perhaps the entire series, made it into the film. The first is when the ever motherly Molly Weasley yells, “Not my daughter you BITCH!” at Bellatrix. Though this occurred during the most intense part of the book and if Molly hadn’t shown up my second favorite character, Ginny, would have ended up like my favorite character, Sirius, I can’t help but burst out laughing imagining my own mother trying to be a BA (for any mothers reading, BA means Bad Ass). The other quote is one from Dumbledore during his King’s Cross encounter with Harry. He says, “Words are, in my not so humble opinion, our most inexhaustible source of magic...” This quote brings together the essence of Harry Potter. I was one of the classic Harry Potter kids, someone who had no interest in literature beforehand. The books welcomed me into the world of literature; a world where learning is safe, participation is expected, a feeling of home is given, and love can conquer all – a world I now can’t live without. 

Leah and I were a little sad we missed the midnight showing
I could write several more pages about Harry Potter, but I won’t put you all through that. Instead, other things that made me happy this morning included realizing I will be seeing my mom in less than ten days, discovering another one of my favorite books “The Perks of Being a Wallflower” is being made into a movie (quote below to intrigue you), and a lingering tummy happiness from the delicious meal my tutor, Aida, made for me last night.

"And I think that they know. Nothing specific really. They just know. And I think that's all you can ever ask from a friend."
-The Perks of Being a Wallflower

But, the thing that threw me over the edge and made my muscles switch from a walking motion to a skipping motion was the thought of the up-coming school year. Every year, around the beginning of August, like the total nerd I am, I become pee-my-pants excited about the up-coming school year. At the beginning of August, the reality of actual school work and test are far enough away for the joy of school to shine through. I have a crazy desire to go buy Lisa Frank folders and every color of highlighter ever created. I think in my head about how this will be the year where I don’t procrastinate and actually read my notes before class. I envision stacks upon stacks of perfect Pharmacology notecards. And though I know, deep down, I won’t even read the notes before my first class and if I ever actually make Pharmacology notecards it will be frantically two days before the test, just imagining myself as a perfect student makes me giddy.

I hope a moment of giddiness strikes you this week and when it does you express it!